The QR plate is then bolted to the surface mount. Bolt the surface-mount to the output gear of the servo on the horizontal arm of the pano head. I used GoBilda Surface mounts which bolt directly to the servo’s output gear to connect the Arco-Swiss hardware.įortunately, most Arca-type QR plates are slotted and will match up with and bolt directly to the GoBilda surface mount. There will be no panorama until the servos can be attached to the tripod and camera.Īn Arca-Swiss quick-release plate is used to connect the pano head to your tripod and an Arca-Swiss quick-release clamp is used to connect a nodal rail that mounts the camera. Just know the weight of the camera and lens you plan to use and compare that to the servo’s torque rating.
#REALLY RIGHT STUFF PANORAMA VIDEO SERIES#
You might even consider a servo such as the GoBilda 2000 Series Dual Mode Servo. The one I chose is both overkill and expensive. You can definitely use a smaller, less expensive servo than the model I chose. The clamping hub on the output gear has threaded holes that are perfect for mounting brackets. The HS-788HB is an eight turn servo so even with the gear reduction it can complete approximately 320° of a circle. I chose the 9:1 ratio which gives me plenty of torque and a nice rotational speed. This servo is available with six different gear ratios. The servo and the U-channel have dimensions and matching bolt holes that make for an easy fit. This unit has an aluminum framework that is both the servo mount and a pillow block for the drive all in one. Servo Motorsįor drive motors, I chose the GoBilda 3206 Series Servo Gearbox which uses a Hitec HS-788HB servo motor. Using two corner brackets, the U-channels bolted together to form a strong L-shaped structure with a perfect 90° corner. All GoBilda components fit and bolt together. But the standardized hole patterns meant that drilling metal was eliminated from my task. Their U-channel looks somewhat like Swiss cheese with lots of holes. I chose GoBilda’s 1120 Series U-Channel for the pano frame. The constituent pieces all have standardized dimensions and standardized hole patterns that make it easy to fit pieces together with no cutting or drilling. The dimensions are not critical as long as you can mount your servos and your camera fits comfortably and has room to vertically pivot.īecause I wanted this to be a “kitchen table” project, I chose to use aluminum channel and hardware from GoBilda, an engineered system of building components. Most any material can be used – wood, aluminum, Lucite, etc – as long as it is rigid enough for the two servos and your camera and lens. The bracket for the pano head is a simple L-shape with a 6.75” vertical arm and a 7.75” horizontal arm.
#REALLY RIGHT STUFF PANORAMA VIDEO CODE#
If the electronics are changed, then the program code will have to be changed. Keep in mind that just about any part of this project can be altered or changed to your liking with the exception of the electronics. How much it will cost to build depends solely on what parts you buy and what find in your junk drawer or on your workbench. Since I have no facilities for doing metalwork or anything other than some light wood-cutting or drilling, the design, for me, had to consist of off-the-shelf parts. This automatic panorama head can be made right at the kitchen table with nothing more than some hand tools, an electric drill, and a soldering iron. The actual pano head consists of an “L” shaped bracket or arm, two servo motors, an Arduino Nano microcontroller and some software. So I decided to also use an Arduino to control the movements of the panorama head. I had previously built an automatic focus-stacking rail for macros using an Arduino micro-controller. So I decided to build my own automatic, motorized pano head that would do the work for me and give me repeatable frames. But since the field of view is much smaller on a longer lens – a 28mm lens has approximately 3 times the field of view of an 85mm lens – the number of frames for a given pano will be many more. I like to shoot panos with a longer lens – an 85 or 100mm – rather than the 28 or 35mm wide-angle lens most folks use.
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